We just got back from PITTI UOMO.

Here’s a model description and some photos from there.

POST O’ALLS  2012 FW

 Overview

 As usual, we have been overlapping a few different flavors this season……ongoing and new.  More British flavor, vintage USNs, vintage Logger classic, vintage Calico archival fabrics, some timely feelings and timeless workwear designs…..all happily mixed up.

 New for this time, we have launched a small new line – Town & Country.  Well, it is not that new actually, since it is mostly consisted with our old or existing designs.  These designs may come from different roots and done in different way than original  POSTO’ALLS.  They are more vintage fieldwear rooted than vintage workwear, and finished in slightly different attitude – to throw more interesting mood to the mix.

  POST O’ALLS styles

 1102 Engineers’ jacket / 1102L Lined Engineers’ jacket

 Most long selling design from 1993. Always tweaked.

 2106 CRUZER 5

 The latest edition of our Logger classic.

 1185 CRUZER

 3^rd edition CRUZER design. 

1186 OK40 / 1186L Lined OK40

 Inspired by stripped–down WW2 regulation OSH KOSH jacket.

 2115 LINDEN 2

 Finally our new version of vintage LEE classic. 

 1190 CARLOS 3

 Named after our late factory fabric cutter. This 3^rd version came fresh with more British flavor.

 2113 P-POST 

A famous USN design.

 2114 Navy Blue

 Our version of now-famous USN classic.

 1515 CRUZER Vest 2

 Vintage Northwestern favorite….in POST O’ALLS way.

 1512 Royal Traveler

 Our classic. Practical travel vest inspired by pre-war hunting vest greats.

 1518 Northwest

 My favorite vintage Eddie Bauer style with a slight twist.

 1255 ZIPPER 3

 3^rd version with a round – with – a point pocket.

 1249 C-POST 6

 Latest version of evolving single pocket C-POST series.

 1252 Engineers’ Shirt 3

 3^rd version of our deluxe work shirt variation.

 1231 E-Z CRUZ 2

 With fully laid–back attitude.

 1211R The POST-R

 Our 1^st single pocket work shirt design. Originally issued in late 90s.

 1397 No. 2 Five Pocket

 Our favorite Five pocket design. LEVI’S-like full cut with LEE-like back pocket fusion. Button fly.

 2308 No.7 Five Pocket

 A slight departure from conventional Five pocket design.  One of our variations in basic straight fit. Zipper fly.

 1378 Double Needle Chino /  1378L Lined Double Needle Chino

 Famous WW2 US ARMY chino with POST O’ALLS treatment.

 2317 POST Baker 2

 Modified fit version of our Baker Pants from late 90s.

 1371 SND

 Single knee version of our popular design from late 90s.  Absent since 2005.

 1941 1102 Tote

 A newer variation of our long time favorite Mil-Spec webbing tote.

 

 Town & Country styles

 7101  #1 Jacket

 Originally issued as “TRAVELER” jacket from late 90s. Inspired by 30s hunting jacket design. Forerunner of the CRUZER designs.

 7201  #1 Shirt

 Our classic “TROPICAL” shirt ( mid 90s~ ) plus extra laid-back mood and slight Hemingway flavor.

 7301  #1 Pants

 “MENPOLINI” design went far with extra Safari / Beverly Hills treatment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now we are on NY show. ( Takeshi )

This time, we started making samples slightly earlier than usual last minute practice ….

 

 

 

 

 

Thus the mood in our factory is not as hectic as usual……I feel quite comfortable as well.  I kinda decided that we will start even earlier next time!

 

 

 

 

 

I got a nice Christmas gift from my vintage friend……this time, a nice LEVI’S denim shirt which I want to wear everyday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like its “not-too-good, not-too-bad-neither” mode, a real wardrobe piece to me.

 

 

 

 

 

Now, time for another New Year’s resolution? ( Takeshi )

I ‘ve been feeling like denim jacket for a while…..but not 100% yet. 

I ‘ve been wearing them at home for at least a couple of years now, checking if that short length seems familiar again. 

I occasionally started wearing them outside last year…and feel like wearing them more often this year.

 

Here’s my current line-up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

LEVI’S 1st edition jacket, late 40s~early 50s.

I personally prefer older ones, yet this last version of the 1st edition fits me better thanks to updated patterns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

LEVI’S 557XX, early 60s.

To me, denim jacket means LEVI’S 557.  I remember I was so crazy about this jacket when I was low-teen. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

LEVI’S 70505, late 60s

Whenever I feel that 557 is a little too short, then I go for 70505.

 

When I wa a kid, I was so curious whenever I saw older denim jackets in the photos.  They looked different compare to then-current model(that was early 70s).  They looked darker, with more streaks.  It took me some more years to find out that they did’nt make the stuff as they used to do.

I really admire LEVI’S 557 design.  As you may know, older denim western jackets always have pleats in their fronts (as on 1st~2nd edition jacket) which allows  some extra movements.  LEVI’S has been making this pleated jacket to match their pants (501s) for a long time already and so did the other companies.

But then LEE came up with their whole new design (101-J) without front pleats in the late 40s, LEVI’S followed the same….but almost 10 years later…thus 557’s debut.  Wrangler and some other companies still retained front pleats well into the late 60s though.

557 seems so reasonable to me, in terms of perfect mathcing jacket for their existing trousers – well, to be more precise – for their new trousers (551XX=forerunner of 505)  which utilized pre-shrunk denim fabric.  LEVI’S still offered shrink-to-fit denim jacket and pants untill 50s,  back when all the other denim products are already using pre-shrunk denim fabrics since its development in the mid 30s.  Now they could offer replacement matched set (557 and 551=505) of pre-shrunk denims.

So, LEVI’S have really catched on.  The whole new jacket seems so natural and organic….as if that jacket design was born together with their signature pants.  Of course the designer behind them is totally different….the time they lived is vastly remote, too.  I wonder how he or she made it……finally a perfect matching design was born.

I believe 5 pocket jean is one of the most primitive existing men’s designs….and I believe what makes jeans separate from all the others is…..skin tight fit or the fit which naturally traces along human body.  I believe that is why people come back to them from time to time.

Thank god, thus we have a difficult choice over traditional pleated style and revised fitted style!  (Takeshi)

Here’s a photo of fake POST O’ALLS shirt which a customer from Thailand sent it to us to verify its authenticity.

 

 

 

 

 

I see it is lacking ” Made in U.S.A.”marking  on its printed label……and smaller collars, unlikely fabric choice, incorrect buttons and paper tag….

Yet I would like to get one and wear it for a joke.(Takeshi)

P.S.  My V.S.O.P. exhibition at NEPENTHES NY Gallery extends to 6 weeks.

 

 

 

 

 

We are going to display my vintage wardrobe at NEPENTHES NY Gallery from Oct. 21 for 4 weeks.

The title is “My V.S.O.P.”.

Display pieces change weekly in 4 different themes.

There are some other pieces for sale as well.

Please check out when you are in the area!  ( Takeshi )

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P.S.

Available now!

 

 

 

 

 

(Takeshi)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For some reason, there are steadily more chances to wear this G-1 a last couple of years…till now.

If you are a flight jacket collector, this is a peanut. 1976 made, fake goatskin (embossed steer hide), synthetic fur collar, and synthetic rib knits. You know, almost all US made products saw their quality declined drastically to the bottom in the 70s.

This is exactly same as my first leather jacket I bought at local import shop nearby.

If you are familiar with those vintage goodies, this jacket is a good example of unpopular vintage – poor quality material, no story to tell…..but I like it….why?

 All I know is:

 I like to wear.

 I like to look at it.

 Joy to own.

 (Takeshi)

This is my long time favorite vintage chambray shirt. An USVA ( United States Veterans Administration ) issue shirt from 1940s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is my interpretation of the shirt. POST O’ALLS #1211 ( late 90s~).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Takeshi)

 

 

 

 

 

Often feels like this muscat green corduroy Levi’s trucker jacket….yet there are more chances to try it on then take it off….why?

 

 

 

 

 

POST O’ALLS cotton ripstop Cruzer. Feels like in between khaki and OD.

 

 

 

 

 

Occasionally duck-hunter.

 

 

 

 

 

I love this USN version of HBT(herringbone twill) utility jacket/shirt.

 

 

 

 

 

There are frequent chances for this and next older (late 90s) denim plaid shirt from POST O’ALLS these days.

 

 

 

 

 

Another variation.

 

 

 

 

 

Still a frequent regular into fall.

(Takeshi)

Here’s some small stuff from our past…

 

 

 

 

 

We made this first bandana to come with our merchandise in a stitched cement bag when we started. This practice lasted for a first couple of years. I always liked navy polka dot bandanas – so I wanted to do the reverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have this cap from our first season ( FW 1993 ). I used to wear those vintage Engineers’ ( or Railroad ) cap with brim cut-off. So I made them without a brim. This herringbone denim example is from few years back.

 

 

 

 

 

We started this series of tote bags around 2000. We started because we found a whole bunch of new old stock official US Military nylon webbings – so I design a new tote bag.

 

 

 

 

 

We initially introduced these tote bags under NYT label, but soon we adopted them to POST O’ALLS line.

 

 

 

 

 

Currently we have only 1 style…but we had a large selection of these military webbing bags in early 2000s. My favorites are short-handled one like these.

 

 

 

 

 

Sterling silver pendant head from early 2000s….you can take them apart by loosening these screws in between the logos.( Takeshi )