Sometimes I start to realize while I inspect something….our standard is not definite, rather moody… 

Take out and clean that “basting” thread or just leave it…..it goes solely by aesthetic.

 

 This happened by accident.  By falsely cutting ( in this case replacement ) parts from different batch of fabric, causes this kind of effect – off shades – meaning mixing different shades of fabrics.

We usually reject these “defect” pieces, and I sometimes save it for myself if that fits me.

 This time, this wonderful accidental creature goes to my friend – I knew he would like it – and I was happy seeing him smile!

 

These are some of the new styles I finished making production patterns today, CRUZER shirt 3 and CRUZER shirt 3 LLC ( pullover ).

 

I kind of find out that this TROPI-CRUZ might be our first shirt which featured this kind of CRUZER pocket configuration. 

This one, from 5~6 years ago, retains some signature details from its predecessor – TROPICAL, like button – down collar band ( to keep collar band open in hotter days ) and sleeve roll-up straps.

 

My pressure level is getting higher and higher everyday as usual…..till next show starts. ( Takeshi )

 

Inspired by Mr. Keizo Shimizu of NEPENTHES…..wearing an embroidered one nicely on INVENTORY magazine cover.

 I dig out mine…..Yes, that’s the one with silver color snap, longer chest pockets and yellow stitching.

 

These cotton twill military pants from WW2….has been on my (?) list for a while.

 I used these distinctive side pocket details fused with our popular BDU pants…..made it into BDU-R status back in …..around 2000?  Maybe in need for an updated version soon?

 

Printed pants again….personally leaning towards these understated ones.

 

These are my choice for last Japan trip……never had a chance to wear one due to the weather though……OUCH!

 

These are the two  most frequent worn outerwears on my last Japan trip.

 Blue houndstooth shirting BDU-R over a poly/cotton poplin navy CRUZER……OOPS ! BDU-R name again? I sometimes give models same name without any thoughts…..

 

This WW2 USN herringbone jacket has been on my (?) list quite a while….

 

This is our version of the jacket above…….from mid 2000’s and in herringbone printed corduroy?

 

My antenna has been wide open……for 2014SS samples. ( Takeshi )

 

I bought this shirt a couple of weeks ago…… at my usual vintage hangout in Harajuku area( = PUEBLO ).  This LEE shirt always has a sweet spot in me because it is the SOURCE of all the early POST O’ALLS shirt. Our shirt started forming its shape from here…..along with many other ideas.

 

LEE work shirt from this era ( 1940s )is really perfect in many sense – perfected original work shirt design for a human, in ultimate well- balanced form. I clearly see the unusually keen sense of the person who draw the pattern……that’s the genius’s work.

 

Before I started POST O’ALLS, I used to wear them almost everyday…..found them deadstock and saved all my sizes in various fabrics – I remember I especially liked to wear Navy blue herringbone version.

 

Unlike many of the vintage work shirt around, they have some good personalities of their own. To me, not older than these, not newer than these…..I like these 40~50s version.

 

Since it is a father of them all, I thought it would fit nicely with what I was wearing that day – POST O’ALLS white waffle shirt, POST O’ALLS Royal traveler in khaki nylon taffeta, POST O’ALLS( sample )CAPE ROYALE 4 in sage cotton/poly poplin….

 

Well, it is still really a good shirt, but I found not quite as good in some aspects….especially in layering abilities.

 

I used to think that it was sort of our weak point that our specialty was in “wear” rather than “actual work” status……yet now I see that our shirt has come long way…..already far from what I thought would be the best work shirt to wear. ( Takeshi )

 

		POST  style sheet	S/S 2013
style#	fabric#	style name	fabric	color
1102	01	Engineers’ Jacket	CONE 10OZ denim	indigo
	FS		Fisher stripe	indigo
	ANT1		Japanese grey covert	charcoal
	CC1		cotton canvas	OD
	CC2		cotton canvas	CH Brown
	CC3		cotton canvas	navy
1102DN	SS1	Engineers’ Jacket-DN	stripe shirting	blue
	GS		grid shirting	blue
	CC1		cotton cord	blue
	CC2		cotton cord	grey
1102LDN	TH	Engineers’ Jacket-LDN	natural drill	natural
	51		５ozDenim	indigo
	VC1		vintage calico print	indigo atom
1102SB	01	SWEETBEAR	CONE 10OZ denim	indigo
	ANT1		Japanese grey covert	charcoal
	ANT2		Japanese grey covert	ash
	CTN		cotton twill	natural
	51		5oz.denim	indigo
	JC		Japanese crepe	blue streak
	SC		cotton sack cloth	sack khaki
1186L	PP1	OK40L	PIMA poplin	dk. Khaki
	PP2		PIMA poplin	olive
	VC8		vintage calico print	brown blues
	TP1		tartan shirting	sage
	TP2		tartan shirting	khaki
	TP3		tartan shirting	brown
1190	PC1	CARLOS3	water repellent P/C poplin	navy
	PC2		water repellent P/C poplin	black
	PC3		water repellent P/C poplin	OD
1185	PC1	CRUZER	water repellent P/C poplin	navy
	PC2		water repellent P/C poplin	black
	PC3		water repellent P/C poplin	OD
	XX		9oz. Dry cotton ripstop	khaki
2111	PP1	CRUZER5-W	PIMA poplin	dk. Khaki
	PP2		PIMA poplin	olive
	PP3		PIMA poplin	black
	PP4		PIMA poplin	red
	PP5		PIMA poplin	navy
2114	01	Navy Blue	CONE 10OZ denim	indigo
	CT2		cotton twill	navy
2116	PC1	LINDEN3	P/C poplin	navy
	PC2		P/C poplin	black
	PC3		P/C poplin	OD
	01		CONE 10OZ denim	indigo
2107	CT1	OK41	cotton twill	khaki
	CT3		cotton twill	navy
style#	fabric#	style name	fabric	color
1512	PP1	ROYAL TRAVELER	PIMA poplin	dk. Khaki
	PP2		PIMA poplin	olive
	PP3		PIMA poplin	black
	PP5		PIMA poplin	navy
	51		5oz. Denim	indigo
	ANT1		Japanese grey covert	charcoal
	ANT2		Japanese grey covert	ash
	VC1		vintage calico print	indigo atom
	VC3		vintage calico print	khaki flower
	VC5		vintage calico print	camel crests
	VC9		vintage calico print	grey nut imperial
	PS1		pinstripe shirting	navy
	PS2		pinstripe shirting	grey
	JC		Japanese crepe	blue streak
1515	51	CRUZER vest 2	5oz. Denim	indigo
	ANT		Japanese grey covert	charcoal
	CT1		cotton twill	khaki
	CT2		cotton twill	navy
	CT3		cotton twill	OD
	CT5		cotton twill	black
	TW1		tropical wool	government navy
	TW2		tropical wool	oxford grey
	SS2		stripe shirting	blue
	SS3		stripe shirting	depression blue
	SS4		stripe shirting	depression khaki
	JC		Japanese crepe	blue streak
style#	fabric#	style name	fabric	color
1230	SC1	Engineers’ Shirt	southern chambray	indigo
	CB		cotton broadcloth	white
	ANT		Japanese grey covert	charcoal
	51		5oz. Denim	indigo
	HS1		hombre shirting	mono
	HS2		hombre shirting	wine
	EE1		end-on-end	cobalt
	EE2		end-on-end	sunset
	EE3		end-on-end	steel
	EE4		end-on-end	lilac
1296	SC1	C-POST4	southern chambray	indigo
	CB		cotton broadcloth	white
	EE1		end-on-end	cobalt
	51		5oz. Denim	indigo
	PS3		plaid shirting	black
	PS4		plaid shirting	purple
	PS5		plaid shirting	red
	PSE1		poly/cotton seersucker	blackwatch
	PSE2		poly/cotton seersucker	navy tartan
	PSE3		poly/cotton seersucker	red tartan
1256	SC1	CRUZER Shirt 2	southern chambray	indigo
	CB		cotton broadcloth	white
	PP1		PIMA poplin	dk. Khaki
	PP2		PIMA poplin	olive
	PP3		PIMA poplin	black
	PP5		PIMA poplin	navy
	PS1		plaid shirting	lime
	PS2		plaid shirting	pumpkin
	SE1		seersucker stripe	navy
	SE2		seersucker gingham	navy
1211R	SC1	The POST-R	southern chambray	indigo
	CW		cool waffle	white
	ANT		Japanese grey covert	charcoal
	SS5		stripe shirting	blue stripe
	SS5		stripe shirting	vintage blue dobbie
	SS6		stripe shirting	grey stripe
	SS7		stripe shirting	beige stripe
	VC1		vintage calico print	indigo
	HS1		houndstooth shirting	navy
	HS2		houndstooth shirting	black
	HS3		houndstooth shirting	red
style#	fabric#	style name	fabric	color
1256S	SC1	CRUZER shirt2 S/S	southern chambray	indigo
	CB		cotton broadcloth	white
	EE1		end-on-end	cobalt
	EE2		end-on-end	sunset
	EE3		end-on-end	steel
	EE4		end-on-end	lilac
	GS1		gingham shirting	blue
	GS2		gingham shirting	mint
	GS3		gingham shirting	red
1211RS	SC1	The POST-R S/S	southern chambray	indigo
	CB		cotton broadcloth	white
	51		5oz. Denim	indigo
1253	SC1	C-POST4POS	southern chambray	indigo
	CW		cool waffle	white
	TP1		tartan shirting	sage
	TP2		tartan shirting	khaki
	TP3		tartan shirting	brown
	VC1		vintage calico print	indigo atom
	VC4		vintage calico print	yellow flower
	VC5		vintage calico print	camel crests
	VC8		vintage calico print	brown blues
	VC9		vintage calico print	grey nut imperial
style#	fabric#	style name	fabric	color
2316	CT1	MENPOLINI NEUTRAL	cotton twill	khaki
	CT2		cotton twill	navy
	CT3		cotton twill	OD
	TW1		tropical wool	government navy
	TW2		tropical wool	oxford grey
2316W	VC1	MENPOLINI NEUTRAL-W	vintage calico print	indigo atom
	VC3		vintage calico print	khaki flower
	VC5		vintage calico print	camel crests
	VC6		vintage calico print	blue batik
	VC7		vintage calico print	brown batik
	VC8		vintage calico print	brown blues
	VC9		vintage calico print	grey nut imperial
2314	ST4	CRUZER pants	supreme twill	khaki
	ST1		supreme twill	dk.khaki
	ST2		supreme twill	OD
1382	C01	No.1 Five pocket	CONE 14oz. denim	indigo
	01		CONE 10OZ denim	indigo
	CT0		cotton twill	natural
	CT4		cotton twill	stone
	CT1		cotton twill	khaki
	CT3		cotton twill	OD
	CT6		cotton twill	powder blue
	CT7		cotton twill	powder pink
2319	01	No.6 Five pocket	CONE 14oz. denim	indigo
	CD1		cotton corduroy	blond
	CD2		cotton corduroy	smoke
1371	PC1	SND	water repellent P/C poplin	navy
	PC2		water repellent P/C poplin	black
	PC3		water repellent P/C poplin	OD
style#	fabric#	style name	fabric	color
2314S	ST4	CRUZER short	supreme twill	khaki
	ST1		supreme twill	dk.khaki
	ST2		supreme twill	OD
	ST3		supreme twill	navy
	C01		CONE 10OZ denim	indigo
	SC1		southern chambray	indigo
2314SW	PP1	CRUZER short-W	PIMA poplin	dk. Khaki
	PP2		PIMA poplin	olive
	PP3		PIMA poplin	black
	PP5		PIMA poplin	navy
1374SW	SS8	MENPOLINI SHORT2-W	stripe shirting	alternate blue
	SS9		stripe shirting	navy x green
	SS10		stripe shirting	tan muti
	SS11		stripe shirting	pale blue
	SS13		stripe shirting	pale pink
	VC1		vintage calico print	indigo atom
	VC2		vintage calico print	brown atom
	VC3		vintage calico print	khaki flower
	VC4		vintage calico print	yellow flower
	VC5		vintage calico print	camel crests
	VC6		vintage calico print	blue batik
	VC7		vintage calico print	brown batik
	VC8		vintage calico print	brown blues
	VC9		vintage calico print	grey nut imperial
1374S	CT1	MENPOLINI SHORT2	cotton twill	khaki
	CT2		cotton twill	navy
	CT3		cotton twill	OD
	CT6		cotton twill	black
	CR1		cotton ripstop	beige
	CR2		cotton ripstop	lt;khaki
	CR3		cotton ripstop	lt.brown
	CD1		cotton corduroy	blond
	CD2		cotton corduroy	smoke
	TW1		tropical wool	government navy
	TW2		tropical wool	oxford grey
2317S	CT1	POST BAKER SHORT2	cotton twill	khaki
	CT2		cotton twill	navy
	CT3		cotton twill	OD
	C01		CONE 10OZ denim	indigo
	FS		Fisher stripe	indigo
	BC1		baby cords	brown
	BC2		baby cords	khaki
	BC3		baby cords	OD
	BC4		baby cords	salmon
	BC5		baby cords	slate blue
	BC6		baby cords	oxblood
style#	fabric#	style name	fabric	color
1950DC	VC1	calico neckwear w/ DAILY CURE	vintage calico print	indigo atom
	VC3		vintage calico print	khaki flower
	VC4		vintage calico print	blue batik
	VC5		vintage calico print	camel crests
	VC8		vintage calico print	brown blues
	VC9		vintage calico print	grey nut imperial
1951DC	VC1	calico square w/ DAILY CURE	vintage calico print	indigo atom
	VC3		vintage calico print	khaki flower
	VC4		vintage calico print	blue batik
	VC5		vintage calico print	camel crests
	VC8		vintage calico print	brown blues
	VC9		vintage calico print	grey nut imperial

 

( POST OVERALLS )

 

It was night before I left for Japan ….I was deciding what to carry for wearing and testing…..in minimal, effective way.  Since my old friend and sort of mentor KOJI dropped by, I asked him some EXTRA advice.

I felt like carrying some white shirt…..more than usual….since I strongly wanted to feel spring air in Japan in some white shirts.

 Feeling more like waffle now….

 

C-POST3? in large waffle, from several seasons ago.

 

SWEET LOGGER in Large waffle…..looks like from same period as C-POST3 above.

 

 SWEET LIGHTER SUPREME in medium waffle, from 2012S/S.

 

 I wanted more whites….in broadcloth or poplin…then I asked KOJI about it.

 He said “ Just WAFFLES”.

 Sure, I see. ( Takeshi )

 

 Ultra simple design yields Futuristic cool. OEDO Subway Tocho-Mae Station

 

 Cool Dark Rosewoody Bathroom door says “Gentleman” in Japanese

 

 Found some Goldfish in a tank in front of old shoes store in Shinsen, Shibuya

 

 My long- time regular….since childhood.  IZUMIYA Cookies

 

 Happened to found old-school Japanese knife handmade by aging craftsman…..we all used to have one.

 

 AIR MOS Burger “ Teriyaki Egg”  It is uprisingly good!  Even if don’t counting that I’m a strong MOS Burger fan.

 

 SAKUBEI YAMAMOTO, vintage coal miner / artist

 

 These Shibuya’s “EYES” are deep in our memories…..will diminish soon. ( Takeshi )

 

A MENPOLINI kind of afternoon….

 

 

 

 

 

 

( Takeshi )

P.S.

Beautiful bottles…

 

 

I finally start feeling like “Spring has come” by this weekend.

My layering was really going back and forth…..

Mainly due to these unstable weather in last couple of weeks….

 

BDU-R jacket in Blue/White End-On-End shirting fabric over CRUZER in blackwatch Italian wool; that translates…..

My mood was totally Spring, yet weather was still chilly in reality…….

 

Again, my mood was ready for Spring ( Navy blue PIMA poplin shirt ), yet weather was not so yet….

So, had to layer cotton flannnel shirt over…if that shirt was wool flannel, the season would be between Summer and Fall.

 

This is……I start feeling like to break-in a new denim shirt…..but worrying about bleeding its indigo into white T-shirt.

Then, layering chambray shirt underneith would be ideal solution.

 

I especially feel Spring in a white shirt!

Yet, it is still cold in the morning….

Then…….double it up!

 

I just picked up this book: ED RUSCHA AND SOME LOS ANGELES APARTMENTS

at ICP ( International Center of Photography ).

 

It is Los Angeles, it is 1965…….the sparkles are in the air!

( Takeshi )

I update our Japanese blog every week…..yet I don’t always so in English version…..due to laziness in translatiing……or some reason…

Here’s some salvaged photos from Japanese blog.

 

 

Set of close-up photos of our signature #1102 Engineers’ Jacket’s cuff.

I was explaining in Japanese blog why our triple stitch pass way beyond the bartack…..which looks inconvenient and unreasonable. 

In many cases in many brands, they usually trim and clean excess threads…..even in many vintage examples.

But we do it that way……..because I like it……it’s part of the design.

 

 

 

Same idea,  in W-needle construction. Hard to see though….

 

 

 

Same idea, @ opening of shorts’ front pocket.

In this case, I sometimes clean threads for my own pair…..but not the factory job.

 

 

I picked this fabric for 2013SS because:

1) Thought it’s a good alternative to a solid khaki fabric….from a distance.

 

2) And I like its 3-D effect in person…..it really pops out.

 

Here’s a new design for 2013 FW….I just washed this sample to check the shrinkage.

 I named it NAVY-CRUZ….as its original design was taken from USN summer cotton flight jacket from 1940s~.

 

 

 

As you may know, the original vintage jacket has many variants…..2 pocket, 3 pocket, 4pocket….shirt collar or shawl collar…..

I was always thinking that I would find one in 2 pocket and shawl collar configuration like ours…..which they never did.

This one is lined with wool flannel for winter……not for summer for sure!

 

I strumbled across this set of vintage 1970s FENDER electric guitar string on Ebay.

I bought it because it brought back some feelings and memories when I acquired my first FENDER.

I was mid-teen and it was a Telecaster……That string came in its case pocket.

Time flies….

 

( Takeshi )

 

 

I did not expect to see this much snow this morning…

 

 

It was blowing in all directions….

 

 

Then, I felt like adding one more…..white shirt

 

 

not over…..adding underneith the white shirt I was wearing

 

 

I wanted to uplift a bit….by adding more white for deeper presence and extra warmth….

 

 

I like the fact that nobody would notice the idea under the Calico Royal Traveler…..yet I feel pretty different…..

 ( Takeshi )