I have been making almost same stuff for last 20 years……and there are some minor spec. changes over the years.
Since I keep forgetting what I did in the past, I guess it is not bad idea to look back and study.
This is a closeup of a POST shirt’s side seam gusset from earliest ( 1993~ late 90s ) era.
We used to use natural cotton herringbone twill tape for them.
This is the front view. Looks like something on the gusset…..
That is ” Mr. POST ” !!!
This is a chambray shirt from the same period…..we sometimes used colored thread, but underthread was basically always matching to upper thread back then.
This shirt is from mid 2000s. We stopped doing herringbone twill tape practice by around 2000, then we started using bias-cut self fabric instead.
The reason for it was…..I believe we thought self fabric may look more understated and easier to go with other stuff.
And, we started using colored under thread sometime around the same time.
This is how triple needle looks like……the choice of colored thread was comissioned to our factory manager.
We thought that was more fun than we spec’d out everything. So, the color combination of under thread was different from each production lot.
This practice lasted for several years.
And, this is our current setting started about 5~6 years ago.
We fixed the color of underhtread to Tiffany / Turquois Blue except for white shirt and other exceptions.
I guess we were sort of getting bored of using random under thread by then and thought it might be good idea to use our signature color of the times…..by the mood.
We may change it again sometime soon?
( Takeshi )