12/22/2013

Dark…..

I’m still in sort of dark-colored mood….mixing around different dark shades around navy….

Charcoal, Black, Blackwatch, OD, dark plaids and stripes….sort of Sub-Monotone kind of thing.

These are recent frequent pickups…

NAVY-CRUZ in Navy Supreme Twill with wool flannel lining.

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Here’s a Royal Traveler in shadow stripe nylon taffeta….

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…..in Blackwatch nylon taffeta

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Newly revised Cape Royale 2 in Navy cotton ripstop.

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POST 40-DV in Navy wool flannel.

Feels like wearing a knit cardigan after hand wash and hang dry…..as intended.

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I start feeling how my next winter mood would go….. ( Takeshi )

P.S.

Picked up some cool staplers…..they are from 1950~70s Long Island City, NY.

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2nd CRUZER

I found an older CRUZER in our warehouse….

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Front view:

I see some direct influences of vintage FILSON cruiser jackets from 1930~40s here and there…

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Here, we used metal buttons on pockets, nuts for the others…and, chest pocket got bigger…

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Inside constructions:

It is made much like vintage FILSON….just rough and simple. We added safety stitch on raw edges, though….it is before we started adding poplin bindings on all the edges.

I see some color threads on underthreads of chain stitches – our old practice to use any random color thread came  handy….

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instruction tape on collar….for moon stitching. This one must be a sample.

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Back style:

It still has huge pocket like FILSON….we changed it to cape from next version.

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Now, I start feeling like going back to our 1st version CRUZER… ( Takeshi )

C-POST7

C-POST series started its life almost 10 years ago as more like an over-shirt….it was originally in between shirt and outerwear.

Mainly inspired by civilian CPO shirt coordinations from 60~70s ( you know, first with slim-pants, then bells and baggy pants and layering shirts and stuff ), some of these shirts had almost square ( not completely round ) shirt-tail or square-tail, and made of heavier wool, much unlike the original WW2 USN CPO Shirt. But they had their own good, relaxing mood due to their in-between character.

Our version was like CRUZER with only two pockets ala CRUZER Vest,  having single back instead double, and vents ( opening ) on sides of square bottoms.

Then, there went to C-POST2 with minor pocket design changes, then went to C-POST3 ,which now had shirt-tail and it was a shirt indeed, with giving a slight nod to great WW2 UNS CPO shirts.

After the C-POST3, from C-POST4 through 6, are variants of square/round pockets, and with/without chinstrap.

Then, new-for-2013FW, we now have C-POST7, and it is more likely an over-shirt again. Yet it is still based on its predecessor, having round-tail and shirt-fit, but with some adjustments for layering.

The result is…an ideal over-shirt, especially great with vests.

Here’s the lightest variation….

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It is made of thin broadcloth with self lining….

Doesn’t look like double-ply at a glance, but it has much more substantial feel than just a plain single shirt….it will grow much different after repeated washing and wearing for sure….with much characters and wrinkles building up….like CRUZER-W.

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Then, the next lightest….

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Light cotton twill for shell, and light cotton flannel for lining.

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Here’s the 3rd lightest.

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Wool flannel on outside, and PIMA cotton poplin for lining.

For some reason, I never liked an wool shirt with cotton, rayon, nylon, poly…whatever on inside collar band.

We have reversed version with Indigo Calico shell with wool flannel lining as well…

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Then, the warmest version.

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These are made of nylon-taffetta shell & lining with the lightest poly-fill ( you see its heavier version in MA-1 ) filled. We have in solid nylon colors and this stripe, and blackwatch as well.

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( Takeshi )

12/08/2013

Digest…

Black Friday… Cyber Monday…and soon to be Christmas….busy flavor in the air…

Something caught my eyes in the morning….

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Yes, that mouton (shearing ) vest….used be popular among hippies in Shinjuku in the early 70s.

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I thought it looked like 70s Japanese sky…near Newark Airport.

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Cool letterings (1).

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(2)

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Thanksgiving @ KOJI’s as usual….I guess that’s rib…

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And this is turkey or chicken?

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I felt that I lost some energy by just passing by…..

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( Takeshi )

From Japan

Here’s some of the stuff I got in Japan this time…

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KEY combo jacket, early 70s.

I asked to hold this jacket before I left for Japan…without asking any question….size, condition, authenticity, etc…

This is a great peanuts in vintage world….not a pristine vintage, yet great to own and wear….type of stuff.

KEY jackets from 60~70s are my longtime favorites….they don’t have strong vintage aura as prewar stuff, but they have their own charms instead….

I have ever seen this type of combo jacket on other brands, say HEADLIGHT and maybe BIGMAC?  But I’ve never seen on KEY from any period.

This is one perfect design example finished with green ribbon on left chest pocket…..great presentation.

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Even though my American Optical has been my “regular” for last 30 years, I flirt with something else from time to time…

I have been longing to get Japanese-made round frame for a while….finally I got a chance!

PS

A great men’s magazine revamped. ” Danshi-Senka”

Contrary to popular belief, “Danshi-Senka=Dan-Sen” has been a real fashionable magazine before Men’s Club in 1950s.

Men’s Club was more for the mass market, targeting for exploding Japanese young fashion interests, coupled with VAN ( the first major IVY force in Japan) in the early 60s.

Dan-Sen was more for exclusive people in the 50s, for the people with fashion interests and money to support it…..which was relatively rare in the 50s Japan.

The original publisher went out for business in the end of 50s , then another publisher took it over… and “Dan-Sen” was never the same….

( Takeshi )

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