Rib knit x 3…

We have a Japanese word ” 3 face jacket (so-to-translate)” for a jacket with 3 parts of rib knit – neck, cuff and waist….and I guess we don’t have that word in English….

Well, we currently don’t have a garment with rib knit…..for a while.

Yet, we have some in our archive…


This looks like our earliest BALL JACKET….from late 1990s?

Navy blue x white cowhide, raglan sleeves w/diamond inserts. This one has felt and chenille letter on chest, some have scull embroidery instead. They were made by late HEWITT Mfg. in Clifton, NJ…Thanks, Sherman!!!


This is a later version of the above. I can see some detail changes….different type of rib knits,

deadstock coil zipper on left chest…..

There were several other variations…different colorway, various melton wool x leather combos, anniversary models…

We used to make new BALL JACKET every year back then…that practice lasted for a while.


This model was named……..UPTOWN, I believe….from early ~ mid 2000s?

A reversible tennis jacket with slight UPTOWN attitude….in cotton poplin, in some colors.


Scull on chest….


Reversed. It has exact same shell material, but rib knit design differs.

It was actually sort of designed to “Day/Night (On/Off)” reversible.

This is “Day” side, I believe.

Then, I remember we also had another “3 face jacket”….which was LIGHT JACKET,

a simpler/looser version of USAF nylon flight jacket like L2-A~MA 1 pedigree…..we used to make them in poly/cotton industrial work shirt poplin -highly discouraging material for a flight jacket.

I think I want to dig some more……( Takeshi )


Farewell party for our friend going back to Japan.


Japan…..sounds really good!!!



I strongly suspect…..that the W-Logger jacket I bought in Japan…with extremely rare detail ( doubled-up 3/4 sleeves ) for American logger jacket ( it is rare, but still seldom seen in vintage Canadian logger jacket )…. is made by BLACKBEAR.


When I acquired that jacket, I was thinking….I have seen “something” in that jacket somewhere…

but I could’t recall. Then, as I was trying that jacket at home a couple of times, suddenly a thought came to me.

Why it has a center seam in back, even on its W-yoke? There should be no reason for a logger jacket to have a seam on its back except….if it is a design issue….or it was for saving some extra fabrics…..or it utilized some other pattern from some other jacket…


Yes, that real curvy raglan sleeves….are distinct characteristics on vintage BLACKBEAR railroad jacket, a choice of great northwestern loggers in vintage Darius Kinsey photos…..a masterpiece from Seattle local brand. Let’s see how they have things in common…













Now, I would like to find some old catalogs and some photos of that jacket in action….please let me know if anybody know anything about that jacket!

( Takeshi )



I found our old detachable ring buttons….we made about 15 years ago.


In Japan…..

As my stay in Japan gets longer due to more new projects in Japan popped up,

more stuff I see, more stuff I can’t resist…


W logger jacket, Unknown make, Unknown period ( most likely

it is from 1920~30s in case it is US made, OR if it is Canadian,1930s or later).



Blue French work jacket, NOS

Our vintage #1106 Jacket ( http://170times.jp/ny/archive/2013/11/post_818.html )

is a good example of slight departure from these typical vintage euro jacket.



WWII USN kit bag

Mr. Shinoda from ANCHOR-VINTAGE was telling me that

USN version is rarer than commonly seen Air Force version.



Navy blue handkerchieves, FUKUZO

You know, FUKUZO used to be a huge icon in “HAMA-TORA (Yokohama Traditional Style )”

in Ladies’ fashion in 1970~80s Japan, famous for Hippocampus embroidery on right ( not left ) chest on parka and sweater and polo shirt.



Local made “Minsar weave” card cases and coasters.

@Ishigaki Island, Okinawa



w/ tons of vintage Kanagawa prefecture ( has Yokohama, Yokosuka ) photos.



Drunk harder w/friends…… Stephane told me he launched new brand and recently start acting on a movie!?

( Takeshi )


Yokosuka ~ Yokohama

I went to Yokosuka the other day….took Yokosuka Line to Yokosuka Station.

I remember the first time I went to Yokosuka…..

I skipped high school with my school buddy and decided to go to Yokosuka… took Yokosuka Line to Yokosuka Station.

I went to Yokosuka so many times since then, but it was my 2nd time to take Yokosuka Line

to Yokosuka last week…..You can go there by Keikyu Line to Shioiri Station, which is more

convenient if you are going to Dobuita Street, where GIs used to hang around big time.


I started remembering the day we were walking along this park to Dobuita Street…..that was almost 36 years ago.


I love this photo…..it captured the real cool air…..it was around 1970, the time

when GIs were flooded on Dobuita Street, taking break for Viet Nam….

This great photo was taken by private GI.



On the same lineage, I love these photos…… these were taken in Honmoku, Yokohama, 1953.




These photos were borrowed from a Japanese blog whose specialty is vintage Yokohama stories ( sorry Japanese only ).


I have seen these photos somewhere else before……and was wondering where these photos were taken….

That blog spotted the exact location, that happened to be so close to where we used to hang

out….but never noticed that area was popular for GIs back then…real surprise.

( Takeshi )

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